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Sunday, February 8, 2009

Saturday mornings on the Szena ter market

Saturday morning is a time for pancakes. I used to make them at home but it would eat a big chunk of our morning that we would prefer to dedicate to something more active. Then we discovered the palacsinta place on the first floor of the Szena ter market and became regulars. Their pancakes are fantastic, with a generous amount of filling, and also cheap.

In the middle of the ground floor is where you can buy fruit and veg from the producers. They do not necessarily have a bio or organic certificate but they are at least seasonal and local.

We buy our meat from the butchers' on the first floor of the market, although we never tried magyar szürke marha (pictured above) or Hungarian grey cattle--a breed of cattle that is specific to Hungarian lowlands.

Lots of potatoes, some scallions and pulses, as seen from the upper floor.

While our visit to the market gets off to a prosaic start (i.e. eating pancakes) it always ends with an aesthetic touch: buying a bouquet of flowers for our house.

Saturday, February 7, 2009

Solishta

This will be mainly a picture post. This is Solishta, a village in Rhodopi Mountain. My friend Zlatka's family has a house there and I have visited this village for almost 20 years. This time we returned there in winter time to celebrate the New Year.

Turlata (photo: Mariana Zhechkova)

Rosehip (photo: Mariana Zhechkova)

Zlatka's house (photo: Mariana Zhechkova)

The whole group without Richard and Desi. (photo: Richard Coupland)

View of Solishta (photo: Mariana Zhechkova)

(photo: Mariana Zhechkova)

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Apocalypse, now (or pretty soon anyway)

What if the world as we know it is coming to an end and the apocalypse lurks around the corner--do you have what it takes to survive?

If this is something you haven't really spared a thought on lately, you must be reading the wrong papers. Apocalypse seems to be the new black, at least in the left-leaning British press that I like to read. The other day I stumbled upon a hillarious article by Guardian journalist Tanya Gold who went into the wild forests of Devon to learn how to prepare for the morning after the big (and I mean BIG) collapse.

"I am an urban girl. I have no skills except whingeing and bingeing. I can barely open a packet of Hobnobs without an explosive device. But, unlike you, doomed and dying reader, I have decided to prepare for The End, and I am prepared to share the life-saving knowledge I will accrue. This is your cut-out-and-keep guide to the apocalypse. Put it in a drawer. One day you may need it."

In her scenario, you wake up one day --post plague, say--and almost everyone is dead, so there's no one to provide your running water or electricity. Or food, for that matter.

I know what you will say--what's the likelihood of something like that happening? All right, perhaps it is not very likely that an avian flu or nuclear war will wipe out a good portion of humanity, but we seem to be on the verge of (or in the middle, or on the first ladder of a very long descent into) a major global economic crisis. That in itself is pretty scary, too.

So even before all these survive-the-apocalypse-guides started appearing in the media I caught myself thinking, well what if the crisis gets really bad and our world changes dramatically? I'm not talking apocalypse here, just a very bad economic crisis with almost no jobs and very little money in circulation--something like we had in Serbia in the 1990s.

What can I do that is practical? Almost nothing, really. I can cook, but can't grow my own food. I can write, edit, translate and write communications strategies but how much would that be in demand? In times like those it's good to be able to do something with your hands: grow food, repair plumbing, fix teeth, make clothes, take out an appendix (ideally, all of the above).

So, should I get worried? Are you?

Sunday, February 1, 2009

Travels with Kapuscinski

One of the really nice things about our regular winter pilgrimage to Lazarevats (Serbia) and Sliven (Bulgaria) this year was Jelica reading to me ‘Travels with Herodotus’ by Richard Kapuscinski while I was driving. Sometimes these long drives can be just a bit boring (10h. from Lazarevats to Sliven) but we found the cure this time – reading. Well, it is easy to listen and not that easy to read but Jelica did it so well. Dziekuje (thanks in Polish). To whoever doesn’t know Richard Kapuscinski is a famous Polish journalist writing mostly about his travels. This is only the second book I (we) were reading after the Shadow of the Sun which Nathalie happily possesses now.

There is a funny story about all that. I found out about Kapucsinski thanks to a Spanish friend of mine – Mar Roman – whom I met in Kenya. Mar is happily married to an Indian now but the Shadow of the Sun is about Africa. Actually ‘Travels with Herodotus’ is partly about India. My copy of the Shadow of the Sun is with Nathalie whom I met in Budapest but Nathalie is currently in Kenya where I first discovered about Kapuscinski. It’s a crazy world.

But let me mention just a couple of words about Kapuscinski. I really recommend him to anybody who likes travelling and to anybody who finds it hard to travel to poor, run down countries like most of the African countries he depicts in the Shadow of the Sun. He simply shows how it is possible to find beauty, friendship and love even in the most wretched and dictatorial places. He proves how it is possible to turn on the ‘good filters’, of course properly analyzing all that the ‘bad filters’ filter out.


View of the seafront in Lamu, Kenya

Local girl in Lamu